metal detector to borrow in the boston area?

[rmd]

any of y'all have a metal detector i could borrow for a few days or a week?

i'm looking to wander around on my brother andy's property out in sudbury.

(also, anyone want to buy a nice old house in sudbury with a big plot of land?)

Comments

[rmd.livejournal.com]

iiinteresting.

are the prizms okay to use on a beach-type environment? (my folks' place is on cape cod, and is next to a tidal river)

i had actually been looking at metal detectors a bit last year before my dad died. i was thinking of getting one for my dad to use on the nearby beach and thereabouts -- i could've pictured him getting into it and with the assorted small great grandchildren to do digging for him, i suspect he'd have enjoyed it.

[scottro.livejournal.com]

Yes, the entire line of Prizms are excellent and easy to use machines. The Prizm III was actually my first machine, but I gave it to my son when I bought my M6. Again, I bought both of my machines on eBay, slightly used, and saved a ton. I am very happy with both purchases.

The Prizm III is excellent for land and beach. I will advise, however, that there are some supplies you absolutely must have if you are going to do any sort of metal detecting. For any of these supplies, I recommend KellyCo (http://www.kellycodetectors.com/indexmain.htm).

1. Headphones. An

essential

item. Keeps the signal to yourself, and it's much more clear. Any cheap pair will do, although some of the pros swear by the more expensive models. If you have an iPod or some such device, you can use the ear buds with an adapter from Radio Shack.

2. A good trowel. Garden trowels are not the best, and they tend to break after extended use. I use a Lesche Digger (about $40). You can find them in any good detecting store.

3. If you're beach hunting, a sand scoop is a must have item. They range from inexpensive ($10) to rather expensive ($75+). The cheap plastic ones work fine.

4. An apron or belt. You need something to carry your tools in, as well as your finds. Whites makes a useful apron, and it's not expensive (if you buy a new machine, especially from KellyCo, you'll get a bunch of stuff free. I see right now they're giving away a very nice digger.)

Some other things to remember that are

very

important.

1. Digging technique. You don't want to just start digging holes all over the lawn (beach is a lot easier, of course, to make the area look like it did before you dug). The idea is to leave an area as you found it. The best technique is called the "flap", and it takes practice. Once you pinpoint your target, use your trowel to make three straight-down cuts, like 3 sides of a square. Now, pull back the "flap" of turf you created, making sure you don't tear it from the remaining side (you're using that side like a hinge, if you can picture it). Remove the soil with your hands or trowel and place it on a towel (good to have several towels with you). After you recover the target, backfill the dirt and close the flap. You might have to stand on it to make it flat again. When done correctly, this technique leaves almost no mark at all.

2. Trash. You will find tons of crap, like bottle caps, pull-tabs, cans, pieces of cans, foil, etc., etc. Don't just leave that stuff in the ground (or sand). Proper etiquette dictates removal of all trash you find as well. I use a two-pocket tool belt, and one of the main pockets is for trash. Your trash to good stuff ratio will be high, so be prepared. Even the best detectors in the world will give you signals for junk because some coins and rings and things fall into the same VDI range and will give a similar signal.

(continued on next post)

[scottro.livejournal.com]

3. Pinpointing. A very valuable skill. If you can pinpoint well and verify your target, you'll save a lot of time. Ask your dealer to show you techniques. also, if you really start to like the hobby, a pinpointing device is an excellent investment. For about $100 or so (I use a Whites Bullseye II), you can purchase a smaller metal detector that you hold in your hand. When you dig a target, many times it's hard to find it in the hole. That's where the hand-held pinpointer comes in. It will locate the exact location of your target in a hole. Can't live without mine.

4. Permission. Make sure you are detecting in a location where it is allowed. Many places are very, very picky. I'm lucky in Ohio, because all parks and schools that are public allow detecting (it's actually a law). If you find a residence you'd like to hunt, ask for permission. It also helps to show them your digging techniques and let them know you won't destroy the lawn. also, it's sometimes nice to offer a portion of your finds to the owner. Whatever you're comfortable with.

Some other tools you might want to look into are gloves, a coin popper, a probe (non-electronic), extra batteries, a knife (for root cutting, unless your trowel has a nice serrated edge) and kneepads. Kneepads are essential for most detectorists, because most detectorists are 40+ and have bad knees! Still, I love mine. I only wear one, as I bend down on my right knee when recovering a target.

Expect to get dirty. It's not a clean hobby. Expect to get tired. Expect a sore arm. Expect long moments of swinging the coil without finding anything. Expect to find a lot of clad (1964-present) coins, mostly pennies. Expect to have some days where you pull 100+ coins out of the ground. It's a great feeling. Expect to find a great assortment of old coins, mostly silver dimes and quarters (pre-1964). Expect to have a great time.

I love this hobby, and I've made some great finds. I'm always looking for the right spot to hunt. Like real estate, this game is all about location. The older, the better. It sounds like you've got some amazing spots to hunt already.

If you'd like to discuss this in greater detail, or have any questions at all, email me and I'll give you my number so we can chat about it on the phone. My fingers are sore. :)

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